Saturday, February 25, 2017

Where To Find Great Supper Clubs

By Ruth Walker


A restaurant that has distinct character came out of the Prohibition Era. These were town diners that were patronized by traveling gangsters who were on the run from the law, and these establishments became a sort of underground railroad for them. They simply came for some good food and drinks, paid in cash, were laconic and did not touch the locals.

Also, they provided these places with enough liquor when times spelt dry counties all over the country. Wisconsin supper clubs started out in this way, but immediately took on the legitimacy of clubs patronized by towsnfolk after liquor prohibition was lifted. They became surefire hits with an edge and a history.

Nowadays, this kind of club is a genteel place for the good folks of a town to gather and have good food and beverages. The standard is for fine dining, and all kinds of new advances in cuisine, styles and technology that have come to pass. The club of this sort is always current to all trends.

Wisconsin used to have lots of empty country crossed by backroads. Hamlets grew here and there, where homesteaders had enough numbers to put up homes and a main street. The gangsters who fought the law started taking pit stops in places that the Feds knew nothing about and had lots of exits and escape routes or hideouts when needed.

These main streets had some makeshift eateries, where some folks could spend the time of day, and gangsters were something from another planet. But these boys knew how to butter up people, and they wanted a moment of peace in the middle of a war. Over time, these diners grew with the custom brought in by gangs, and the quality food and liquor they brought in with them.

Supper clubs became progressive places with a spirit of conviviality and high times, and offered great food and accommodations. These are often found outside of big cities, to where the highways become quieter and more rural. But these are highly accessible for motorists, and are often just 45 minutes away from a big city.

The state therefore has its own excellent version of out of the way clubs with an aura. These are not exclusive, but operate more like starred places on the Michelin book on the suburbs of Paris. They are actually very legit, and have nothing of the spirit left from those times when gangsters where their main source of income.

However, there can be some mementos from that era on the walls. These are nods to an earlier, harder time, but these are nowhere found in actual practice or services. In fact, the atmosphere today is the exact opposite of furtive enjoyment, but is more open but certainly somewhat reserved but not at all unfriendly.

The tastes here are American or Midwestern, classic portions of steak, with excellent sides. But then, the owners are worldly enough and feature many kinds of entrees. These are diners that become instant favorites with first timers, and the tradition of quiet welcome continues, a thing that gangs from yesteryear appreciated in their own way.




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